The following is a discussion regarding climbing in a team
on 3 with one rope. This is a
common technique used in the alpine climbing world when weight considerations
are paramount and moving quickly is key to success. Careful consideration is required on when to use each
technique. Keep in mind these
techniques are to be used with a single rated rope.
First I will introduce 3 methods and definitions for rope
strategies in a team of 3. They
are as follows.
Parallel End-Roping:
Generally done with 2 climbers, 2 ropes. The leader is usually tied into the middle of the climbing
rope with followers tied in to either end. In this configuration, both followers climb at the same time
with a 20ft or so space between.
This technique requires that the leader belay from a hands free device
to adequately manage 2 belay ropes.
Linked End-Roping:
Also called “Caterpillar.”
The common configuration for this method is the leader tied into one
end, second climber is tied into the middle, and the third climber is tied into
the opposite end. The followers
are then belayed up one at a time.
Double End-Roping:
Two climbers, one rope. In
this configuration, the leader is tied into the end, with 2 followers tied into
the opposite end about 10ft apart.
The 2 seconds are then belayed up at the same time.
Consider parallel end-roping when the pitch is difficult for
the parties skill level. Think
crux pitches, where the leader is still comfortable at the grade. This allows both followers to climb on
separate ropes and at their own speed.
It also allows the climber(s) to hang on the rope without interfering
with the others progress.
Efficiency is increased with this system as both followers are climbing
simultaneously.
It’s also important that the pitch does not have a high
rockfall hazard as both climbers will be in the “shooting gallery.” Additionally this technique requires
that the belay anchors are unquestionably strong as you will be belaying 2
seconds simultaneously with potential for both seconds to load the system. When implementing this technique with a
party of 3 and 1 rope, you will only be able to lead pitches that are half of
your rope length.
When using this system, it is important to only be belayed
on one strand of the climbing rope, not both. Both strands can be clipped to each piece to ensure you are
clipping the belay rope.
Furthermore, rope/stance management become more complicated when using
this system.
There are several options for the leaders attachment to the
climbing rope. Personally I prefer
to be tied into the rope rather than clipped in with lockers. My preference is to use a bowline on a
bight or a double fishermans knot as a tie-in.
 |
| Double fisherman's tie-in. |
Once you have committed to this system, it is most efficient
for the leader to lead through the most technical climbing and onto the easier
terrain where a different rope system can be utilized. This will allow your team to move
faster as you will not have to transition between leaders at every belay.
Linked end-roping can be utilized in a few scenarios. This is an appropriate choice if the
terrain is difficult for the leader and followers. It allows the leader to only trail a single strand of rope
rather than 2. It is also easier
for the leader to manage the belay for the seconds.
 |
| Bowline on a bight tie-in. |
Efficiency is lost with this technique as only 1 climber is
belayed at a time. Also, the
pitches must be kept to a half rope length.
Double end-roping is appropriate on stepped or homogenous
terrain and a fall is unlikely.
This technique is best used on slabby or steppy terrain where the
difficulties are brief. It is
helpful when increased efficiency is required. It allows the leader to climb longer pitches and allows ease
of rope management.
Remember when using this technique that both followers can potentially
load the belay chain at the same time.
Because of this, there is a greater hazard regarding sharp edges and
flakes cutting or damaging the climbing rope. Additionally there is significantly more rope stretch in the
system if both climbers load the rope.
In a double end-roping scenario, if the last climber falls,
they will likely pull off the climber above them. It is advisable to have the weaker climber on the team tied
in above the stronger climber on the end.
For the attachment of the middle climber, an overhand on a
bight with about 10-12 inches of tail is best. Tie a slip knot at the end of the loop and clip in with 2
locking carabiners opposite and opposed.
The slip knot will help keep the lockers oriented in the correct position and
avoid cross-loading. One could
also tie in with the aforementioned methods, but this requires a large amount
of rope.
 |
| Middle climber tie-in. Notice the slipknot on the Black Diamond Vaporlocks. |
These techniques should be used by a competent party well
versed in climbing and mountaineering systems. Experience and judgment are required to appropriately select
the best system for your climbing team and objective. It is important to have the skills to transition between
each system and apply the right system to the terrain.
Remember to practice these systems with your climbing partners
before you set off on your next climbing adventure.
Happy Climbing!
