Sterling Ion R

Rock season is here in the Colorado Front Range, so time to get outta the gym and get back on your outdoor project!  Rope choice can play a major role in success or failure.  My choice for multi pitch rock routes is the Sterling Fusion Ion R.  At 9.4mm it’s the perfect blend of durability and weight.  Not too skinny for big wall free climbing abuse but not so fat that weight and functionality become an issue on rope-stretcher pitches.  It gives a great catch and is easy to hold when logging air time working a crux pitch. The Fusion Ion R is quite supple, giving it an excellent handle and feel. 

It comes in a variety of lengths from 50-80m at 10m intervals.  I have found the 70m to be my personal favorite and ideal for demanding free climbs such as Moonlight Buttress in Zion National Park and Freerider in Yosemite Valley.

Sterling makes a dry version of this rope in each length and also offers a bicolor version.

Five Ten Camp 4

Five Ten’s Camp 4 is sure to deliver.  It’s a workhorse approach shoe with a new design for 2014.  The Camp 4 kept in stride with its durable predecessor.  The new version features a slightly lower profile heel and increased lug height for better traction on all terrain.  They come with less seams on the upper for enhanced durability and increased weather protection.

The Camp Four is equally at home scrambling around Vedauwoo or hiking the Pacific Crest Trail.  Five Ten’s patented Stealth S1 rubber keeps you secure in the vertical world. 

I have abused these shoes for months from a summer of guiding in a variety of terrain.  Durability is certainly not a concern and most importantly they keep my feet painfree during long days in the mountains and carrying heavy packs. 

Five Ten has only improved a great approach shoe with the remodeled Camp Four.

Deja Vu

Currently recovering my second shoulder surgery in 2 years.  Hopefully climbing again in 2 weeks!  Heres the damage...

Scarpa Maestrale Rs

This is my second winter on these boots and I couldn’t be more psyched on them.  Scarpa designed this boot for people who like to drive big skis and charge but still want the lightweight functionality of a touring boot.  The 4 buckle design keeps my feet locked in ski mode allowing me to ski steep, aggressive lines.  They are the lightest boots on the market with a 120 flex.   They come with Scarpa’s patented Intuition liners, a fully thermo-moldable liner, giving the boots unmatched fit and comfort.

Tour mode in the Maestrale Rs is just as impressive.  They feature an incredible 40 degrees of cuff travel while weighing in at a mere 3lbs 7oz per boot!  Scarpa has hit the mark with this ski boot.  These boots come with Dynafit fittings compatible with a tech binding or any other touring binding.

The Maestrale Rs is a harmonious blend of comfort, flex for touring, and stiffness for the down.  I’ve even climbed some easy ice pitches in them!

If you like charging in the backcountry yet still want to save some pounds on your 6,000ft touring day, the Scarpa Maestrale Rs is for you.

Snake Coulior, Mt. Sneffels

A few photos to get psyched for rock season....

Country Club Crack, Boulder Canyon

Pitch 13 Original Route, Rainbow Wall

Pitch 13 Original Route, Rainbow Wall

Five Ten Anasazi Pink & Guide

I recently received a pair of 5.10's new Anasazi Guide and the re-released Anasazi Pinks ("The Pinks").  Great weather and temperatures here in Boulder has made this an excellent fall for climbing.  Over the past month I've climbed around 50 pitches in these great new additions to the 5.10 line.  I've fit both The Guides and The Pinks on the performance side of comfortable.  Here are some of the details....

The Guides:  A great all around performer.  Five ten came out with this shoe with guiding in mind.  They have a stiff last which makes for great edging power and allows for all day comfort.  My feet don't fatigue while standing on micro edges in Eldorado Canyon.  Additionally, The Guides come lined so don't expect them to stretch much, which I really like in a climbing shoe.  They also have a bit more padding in the tongue and sides of the shoe to protect your feet from abuse in cracks.  Another great feature is the heel cup and heel rand.  My heel takes up 100% of the heel cup and the rand doesn't dig into my achilles tendon which I've had issues with using other shoes.  This is really important on long routes where your shoes are on all day.  Bottomline is these shoes are a great all day shoe that blends comfort and performance!

The Pinks:  What can I say that hasn't already been said about the phenomenal Anasazi line from 5.10?  The Pinks are another great re-addition to the Anasazi family.  Designed with power edging in mind these shoes won't disappoint.  They come with an asymmetric toe box to force power onto your big toes for supreme holding power.  Once again, an excellently designed heel cup and heel rand keeps my foot secure in the shoe without slipping.  A lining and dual pull on loops round out The Pinks.  These will for sure be my go to shoe for high end trad climbing and edging testpieces.

The Pinks in action.  Eldorado Canyon.

Ariana

Here are a few shots from climbing Ariana on the East Face of Longs Peak during the last week of August.